Begin by checking the engine while it’s slightly warm. Not hot, just enough that the fluid flows more easily. This helps it drain thoroughly and prevents sludge from staying behind. You’ll need a drain pan, a wrench, a funnel, and a replacement filter–some models require a strap wrench if the old filter’s stuck. Double-check the specs; using the wrong type here can cause more issues than skipping the service altogether.
Set the unit on a flat surface and engage the parking brake. If there’s a drain valve, attach a hose to direct the used liquid away cleanly. If it’s a plug system, it might be messier–prepare for that. Loosen the cap to help airflow, then open the valve or remove the plug. Let gravity do the work. Wait longer than feels necessary. Rushing this part leaves behind residue that shortens engine life.
Once it’s empty, replace the filter. Lightly coat the gasket on the new one with clean lubricant–finger-smeared is fine–and don’t overtighten. Just a firm twist, maybe three-quarters past contact. Pour in the fresh fluid using a funnel, slowly. Stop a bit below full, then run the engine for 30 seconds and recheck the level. Top up if needed. Wipe everything down before closing the hood–it’ll help spot leaks later.
If this all sounds tedious or you’re short on time, the crew at PROPERTY WERKS in Calgary handles this and more. Personally, I’d rather enjoy a quiet morning and let someone else take care of it right. They’re reliable, and you won’t have to second-guess if it was done properly.
Locating and Reaching the Drain Plug
Begin by steering the unit onto a flat, solid surface–preferably your driveway or garage floor. Let it cool if it’s been running. Don’t skip that part; the engine gets hotter than you’d expect.
The plug is usually on the lower side of the engine block, slightly recessed. If yours is a Briggs & Stratton engine, you’ll likely find it on the right side, near the base, close to the frame. Kohler models often place it at the front or tucked in low near the flywheel shroud. It’s rarely front-and-centre, so a flashlight helps. So does getting down low–like, almost-ground-level low. It’s not the most comfortable position, but it’s the only way to spot it cleanly.
Accessing the Plug
Remove the hood if it’s in your way. Some versions let you tilt it forward; others require lifting it off entirely. Not hard, just slightly awkward. There might be a plastic shroud covering part of the engine. If so, pop it off–usually just a couple of clips or screws.
The plug itself is a small metal fitting, often with a square or hex head. Some models include a plastic drain tube clipped nearby; if it’s there, attach it now. That tube is your best friend for avoiding a mess. Without it, be ready with a pan and maybe a few rags–clearance is tight, and the frame can interfere with clean drainage.
Once you’ve located it, give it a quick wipe. Any caked-on debris can fall into the pan or, worse, into the opening when you loosen it. And if it’s seized up a bit, don’t over-muscle it. A small adjustable wrench usually does the trick, but avoid using pliers–they chew it up fast.
If this feels like more hassle than it’s worth–or you’re just not in the mood–PROPERTY WERKS in Calgary does this sort of thing with no fuss. They’ll probably finish before you even find your socket set.
Steps to Completely Drain Old Oil Without Spills or Mess
Position a shallow drain pan directly beneath the plug, making sure it’s centred. Too far to either side and you’ll end up chasing streams across your driveway. If the model uses a tube extension, connect it tightly and angle it downward. Gravity helps–tilt the frame slightly if the machine allows it, but only on stable ground.
Let the engine run for three to five minutes beforehand. That warms the fluid just enough to thin it out, so it flows quicker. Don’t overdo it though–hot fluid can scald. Wear gloves, and keep a rag handy for wiping the plug or your hands if it drips. It probably will.
Loosen the cap slowly while applying slight downward pressure. That keeps the seal tight just until you’re ready. Once it loosens, step back slightly–there’s usually a small rush at first. Let it drain completely. Resist the urge to tip the unit aggressively to speed things up; it often leads to splashes or missed spots in the pan. Just give it time.
Extra Tip for Cleaner Disposal
Place a piece of cardboard or a flattened box under everything, especially if you’re working on gravel or grass. Absorbs small splashes and saves cleanup time. Once it stops dripping, wait another minute. A bit more usually comes out. Then wipe the area around the plug and reseal it–firmly, but don’t overtighten.
Who to Call If You’d Rather Not Bother
If this all sounds a bit much–or if the job’s overdue and you’re not quite sure what’s been used before–PROPERTY WERKS in Calgary handles seasonal upkeep with care. No guessing, no mess. Just done right.
Refilling With the Right Grade and Volume
Use SAE 30 for most engines operating above 4°C. If you’re running the machine in colder temperatures, 5W-30 might be a better fit–it handles low temps more reliably. Check the manual for your exact model, but in general, these engines need about 1.5 quarts (roughly 1.4 litres).
Pour slowly and check the dipstick frequently. It’s surprisingly easy to overfill, and that leads to smoke or fouled spark plugs. The stick should show the level just below the “full” mark when the cap is screwed in completely, not just resting on top. If you’re second-guessing it–stop. Recheck. Maybe even wipe the stick and try again.
Don’t skip the funnel. It seems like a small thing, but it saves you from wiping up drips off the frame or deck. Use a clean one–any grit or dust in the oil fill can work its way into the system.
If you’ve just drained the old fluid, give it a few minutes before topping off. Sometimes what looks “low” at first settles into the right range once it’s had a chance to move through the engine. Resist the urge to top it off too soon.
And if this part feels like a hassle or you’re unsure–PROPERTY WERKS in Calgary can handle it quickly. They deal with this stuff all the time. Saves you second-guessing and cleanup later.
Q&A:
What type of oil should I use for a Craftsman riding lawn mower, and how much is needed?
Most Craftsman riding mowers use SAE 30 motor oil for warmer temperatures and 10W-30 for variable conditions. The exact oil type might differ slightly depending on the engine model, so checking the owner’s manual is a good idea. As for quantity, most models require around 48 to 64 ounces (1.5 to 2 quarts). Avoid overfilling, as that can lead to engine problems. Use the dipstick to check the level once you’ve added new oil.
Do I need any special tools to change the oil in my Craftsman riding mower?
No special tools are needed, but a few basic items will make the job easier. You’ll need a wrench or socket set to remove the drain plug, an oil pan to catch the old oil, a funnel for pouring the new oil, and possibly an oil filter wrench if your model has a replaceable filter. Disposable gloves and some rags or paper towels can also help keep things clean.
PROPERTY WERKS Contact Information:
Address
1017 1 Ave NE, Calgary, AB T2E 0C9
Phone
403 239-1269
Hours of operation
Monday 9 a.m.–5 p.m.
Tuesday 9 a.m.–5 p.m.
Wednesday 9 a.m.–5 p.m.
Thursday 9 a.m.–5 p.m.
Friday 9 a.m.–5 p.m.
Saturday 9 a.m.–5 p.m.
Sunday Closed
Online service – Open 24 Hours / 7 days